Tehran’s Grand Bazaar

Tehran’s Grand Bazaar is one of the oldest shopping malls in the world, and easily one of the largest. Spread out over 20 square kilometres, the Grand Bazaar’s winding maze of corridors, alleyways, stairwells and hidden passages run for over 10 kilometres in length. Everything, and I mean everything you could possibly want to buy can be found here.

Gulab jamun (sticky saffron-flavoured dumplings)

These are really delicious and one of India’s favourite little desserts. They are traditionally made with reduced milk but as that takes a lot of time and effort, many of us make them with dried milk powder instead. They are easy to make and the only two tricks to getting them right  is a soft dough and frying them over a very low heat so they cook all the way to the centre. They are very moreish! Serve as they are or warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Potato-crusted saffron rice

A gently sweetened rice and potato bake perfumed with saffron, though it’s fried really, not baked, until crisp and golden. Use a mandoline to slice the potatoes as they need to be exactly the same thickness for even cooking. The saffron sugar syrup will continue to develop flavour and colour over a period of seven days so begin this step up to a week in advance.